Travel and Leisure calls Yutaka Sushi Bistro one of the best sushi ...

Yutaka's sushi impressed back in 2010 (2010 file)

OK, I was a bit stunned by this one: Travel and Leisure has published a story about the best sushi restaurants in the country, and Yutaka Sushi Bistro is one of 21 included.

I was very impressed with Yutaka when I reviewed it (in tandem with sister restaurant Sharaku Sake Lounge) in 2010; it earned four stars. But my more recent experience, when I dined there in June, was a very different story. I loved some of the appetizers, particularly chef Yutaka Yamoto?s ?antipasto? and a salad starring ?caviar seaweed? ? a salad of seaweed with incredible, odd and wonderful texture. But the sushi was extremely disappointing ? underseasoned rice, good but lackluster fish, no fresh wasabi available. Worse, the service was abominable. Sushi came out at a sea snail?s pace. Later, we struggled to get anyone?s attention, as we watched the chef schmoozing friends (or maybe they were just regulars) at the sushi bar. He seemed to pay absolutely no attention to how other diners were faring in his (by the way, very expensive) restaurant. Meanwhile, I find it odd that while there?s a terrific selection of sakes two doors down at Sharaku, Yutaka?s sake selection is cursory.

I worked for Travel and Leisure as a contributing editor for years, and I know the editors are very serious. But I think these round-ups with national scope are extremely problematic. In the case of Yutaka, at this point in time, I don?t even think it?s the best sushi restaurant in Dallas. For instance, I prefer Masami Japanese Sushi and Cuisine, which I reviewed this week. Tei Tei Robata Bar had some very good sushi when I reviewed it early last year, but I haven?t been back since then. I?m overdue for a return visit to Keiichi in Denton, which I?ve loved in the past. I dearly love Tei-An, but I don?t consider it a sushi restaurant.

I really wish, and I?ve said this a grillion times, that Dallas sushi chefs would remember why sushi is called sushi ? it means ?vinegar,? which is supposed to season the rice. Dallas sushi rice almost always lacks vinegar. At Masami, it?s decently seasoned, though to my taste, still a little light. Fresh wasabi is a given there, which is wonderful.

So. In your book, who does the best sushi in or around Dallas?

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Source: http://eatsblog.dallasnews.com/2012/11/travel-and-leisure-calls-yutaka-sushi-bistro-one-of-the-best-sushi-restaurants-in-the-country-is-it-really.html/

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